A new hat pattern! Cables!

Please note:  All my hat patterns are free, in order to encourage donations.  If you post photos of your work, please acknowledge the creator.  Please also look at my other patterns on Ravelry [link].

These are two photos with very different lighting of the same hat.

It is assumed the crocheter is familiar with front-post and back-post stitches, as well as crochet in the round.

This hat begins with the first 6 rounds of my ribbed hat pattern, found here [link to pattern, with video tutorial].

1. Ch 4, slip stitch to make a ring.  Ch 3 (counts as a DC), work 11 more DCs in the center of the ring.  Slip stitch to join (SSTJ).  (12)
2. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), [FPDC around the initial ch st from 1st round; DC in top of next st, FPDC around post of the same st.] repeat bracketed instructions for each stitch.  Join to ch 3 with a SS behind the ch. (24)
3. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC), DC in top of next FPDC, FPDC around post of same st; [FPDC in next st, DC in top of next FPDC, FPDC around post of same st] repeat brackted instructions until end of round.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.(36--FPDC + DC + FPDC for each of the first round DCs)
4. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC), DC in top of next DC, DC in top of next FPDC, FPDC around post of same st; [FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next st, DC in top of next FPDC, FPDC around post of same st] repeat bracketed instructions until end of round.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join. (48--FPDC + 2 DC + FPDC for each of the first round DCs)
5. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC), DC in top of next DC, FPDC in next DC, DC in top of next FPDC, FPDC around post of same st; [FPDC in top of next FPDC, DC in next st, FPDC in next DC DC in top of next FPDC, FPDC around post of same st] repeat bracketed instructions until end of round.  SS in top of ch 3 to join. (60--FPDC + DC + FPDC+ DC + FPDC for each of the first round DCs)
6. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), FPDC around ch 3 below, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC; [DC in top of next FPDC, FPDC in same FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC] repeat to end of round. (72--DC + FPDC + DC + FPDC+ DC + FPDC for each of the first round DCs) 
   
   End of increase/beginning of side
7. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), DC in each st from row 6. SSTJ.  It is very easy to accidentally add or remove stitches in this row. Count carefully. 
8. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), DC  in next 2 DC, FPDC in next 9 DC; [DC in next 3 st, FPDC in next 9 st] repeat to end of round. SSTJ  The same advisory from row 7 applies. If the count is off at the end of the round, find the error and fix it.  
9. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), DC in next 2 DC, sk 3, FPTC in next 3 FPDC, FPTC in the 3 skipped FPTC working behind the 3 FPTC just worked, DC in next 3 FPDC; [DC in next 3 DC, sk 3, FPTC in next 3 FPDC, FPTC in the 3 skipped FPTC working behind the 3 FPTC just worked, DC in next 3 FPDC] repeat to end of round. SSTJ
10. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), DC in next 2 DC, FPDC in next 9 stitches, being sure to catch all of them; [DC in next 3 DC, FPDC in next 9 stitches, being sure to catch all of them] repeat to end of round, SSTJ
11. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), DC in next 2 DC, DC in next 3 FPDC, sk 3, FPTC in next 3 FPDC, FPTC in the 3 skipped FPTC working in front of the 3 FPTC just worked, ; [DC in next 3 DC, sk 3, FPTC in next 3 FPDC, FPTC in the 3 skipped FPTC working behind the 3 FPTC just worked, DC in next 3 FPDC] repeat to end of round. SSTJ
12. Repeat row 10.
13. Repeat rows 8 - 12.
    
    Turn-up brim
14. Turn work;  SS behind the ch 3 below, ch 3 (counts as a FPDC); FPDC in every st to end of round.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.
15. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC), FPDC in each FPDC below.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.
16. Repeat step 15 if desired.  Tie off.
    
    Alternate edging
17. Work 2 or rows of SC in every stitch.  Tie off.

Sew in loose ends.  Bribe someone to pose for Instagram photos.

(c) David Browning 2022

The Voices in my Head

The voices in my head:  What have you accomplished, loser?

Me:  Um, I finished The Sweater That Would Not Die.  And I made another totally new sweater.  And a shawl/wrap thingy.  And a cowl. And I'm making dog sweaters to donate, and I've started next year's Hat Not Hate project. Oh, and I also updated a hat pattern.

TVimH:  Feh!  You think that's enough?

Me:  Well, yeah!  Who the heck are you to question my accomplishments?

TVimH:  What about the charity pattern collection?  What about the numeric goal you had for published patterns? What about the new merch on TeeSpring you wanted to add?  What about....?  What about...?

Me:  SHUT UP!  You listen to me, voices from my past!  I am doing what I can, as best I can, with the resources and limitations I have.  Every time you throw one of those questions at me, I ask myself who said those words first, because it sure as heck wasn't me! It has taken me years to learn that, to own that, and to try to remember it consistently.  You might occasionally win the day, but as God is my witness, you will not win this war!

Recent stuff.  Forgive me for not doing more formatting.

Updated: Crochet Hat With Ribs!

Please note:  All of my hat patterns are free to encourage people to make donations. Please use them as you like, but credit my pattern if you publish photos. Please also look at my Ravelry store for other patterns:  David Browning Designs

This is an update to this post:

I'm not talking about barbecued ribs today, but with the ribbing effect that can be achieved when crocheting in the round.  I assume everyone knows how to do normal crochet in the round, but if you don't, here is a tutorial:

To review, I start with a circle of 12 DCs, which is the most common starting round I have seen.  Each of those 12 DCs is the point of a wedge--in the second round there are 2 DCs, in the third round 3 DCs, etc., each emanating from the initial DC.  That is how the required increases to create a true piece in the round are accomplished. 

Let us assume we want more texture, perhaps a texture to go along with the stitch that is used on the side of that hat.  Here is one way to accomplish that.

1. Complete your initial ring of 12 DCS. I don't care how the ring is accomplished--magic ring, ch4, ch2 and use the 1st ch as your ring--that's just you crocheting. Slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with the initial DC or initial ch3 that substituted for a DC.  (12 st)
2. For round 2 we need 2 stitches for each stitch below. Ch 3 in the top of the 1st DC (or ch3), then FPDC in the post of the same DC.  Repeat for each DC in round 1.  SS behind the ch3 to join. (24 st)
3. Ch3, which counts as 1st FPDC. In FPDC from 1st wedge below, DC in top of the st, FPDC in post of same st.  For each succeeding wedge, FPDC in 1at st, DC + FPDC in 2nd st.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC. SS behind the 1st ch3 to join.  (36 st)
4. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-DC-FPDC.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.  (48 st)
5. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., FPDC in next DC, DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SS in top of the initial ch 3 to join.  (60 st)
6. Ch 3 (counts as DC), FPDC around post of same DC/ch3, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SSTJ in the manner appropriate for the next round, which should be without any increases at all.

Since this pattern can be used with any yarn and an appropriate hook for that yarn, the number of increase rounds will vary to create a crown section the right size. The green hat pictured used a bulky yarn and an 8mm/L hook, so it did not require the same number of increase rounds as the blue hat.

You can now continue with the ribbing for the entire vertical portion of the hat by working FPDCs in every FPDC and DCs in every DC. You could execute a rice stitch by alternating FPDC and DC in every other stitch, then DC in every FPDC and FPDC in every DC from the previous round.  The choice is entirely yours!

End with 1 or 2 rows of SC.  Tie off.

Rice stitch at with ribbed top

Ribbed hat

Roll up! Roll up!

 What in the world am I going to do with all of this hand-dyed yarn?

If you say knit with it, I shall take actions that are beyond me to name, but that will leave you in severe pain and dismemberment.

OK, yarn, I'm waiting.  Tell me what to do with you!

Ginger Bear:  You've had me the longest!  Don't you think you should make something beautiful with me first?

Me:  Shut up, you!  That's why I can't decide! Besides, I keep you as a memory of the time when Daniel actually remembered I was alive.

Cascade Yarns:  If you use us first, we won't tell anyone that we were a gift from someone who received a giveaway prize but couldn't use us because we're 100% wool.

Me:  Shut up, Cascade!  I'm not afeared of you!

Traveler, MaryJaneKnits, Marigoljen: You only have us because of that lovely man at the retreat who was de-stashing and donating sales proceeds toward the retreat scholarship fund.

Me:  That is true. But you are one hank each. You haven't yet suggested a design. Hit me.

Simple Pleasures Yarns:  We were the most expensive in your collection, and you have 500 yards of us! And we're a solid color! It's about time you did something!

Me:  I can't deny it.  What do you want to be?

Simple Pleasures Yarns:  I dunno......

Blue Ply Alpaca:  You have 1090 yards of us, and you won us in a giveaway. We are a solid color, too, and we were completely free!

Me:  You're still not giving me ideas. At least not ideas that involve a crochet hook. A fire pit, maybe.....

Undiscernible concerted voices:  Shawls!  Make more shawls!  

**heavy sigh**  I was afraid of that.  

Well, actually, I do like making shawls.  Stay tuned.  

....as we say in NC,,,,,,

"Oy veh. as we say in NC!"

"Actually, we don't say that in NC. That's an affectation you picked up when you were in New York!"

"Affectation?!  Moi?!"

via GIPHY

"Yes, you!  Let's get to the point.

"OK,  in truth I'm sort of cranky because I feel like I haven't done anything productive this week.  Yes, I published a pattern or two, but no sales to speak of...."

"Then back up.  What is your big-picture objective.?"

"Lots and lots of patterns and designs, and being recognized as an authority."

"Where do you stand in meeting that goal?"

"I have 25 patterns on Ravelry, I am considering an e-book of my shawl patterns, and people say nice things to me."

"So you want more patterns, more published books, more public recognition in a way that can be measured."

"Exactly!"

"And you're having a conversation with a keyboard right now?"

"Actually, you [insert swear word here], you are helping me organize my thoughts."  

"Glad to be of service.  You will receive my bill at the end of the month."

"Not surprised."

"OK, mortal jackass, what strengths do you have that we can build on?

"Some people think I'm cute."

"No, I mean in the real world."

"I am good at writing patterns. I used to do business writing, so I am accustomed to writing in a fashion that is most clear to the largest audience. I also have a snappy sense of humor."

"Back to the real world, if you please!"

"I enjoy doing interviews for YouTube, and they seem to draw attention and favorable comments."

"What else?"

"Um......I like puppies?"

"YES!!!  That's it! A puppy project!  That will gain you the attention you crave!"

"Soooooo......if I urge people to do what they should be doing anyway--making dog sweaters and blankets for pet rescue organizations--that will benefit me materially?"

"Materially?  To whom do you think you are talking?  [see what I did there grammatically?]  I'm here for your soul, not your wallet! That is where your focus should be, too!"

"

Mmmmmkay, I'll tell that to the man when he repossesses my car next month......"

A new project

Good morning boys and girls, cats and dogs--we are an inclusive blog here!

I am announcing a new project. I had previously announced a project to create a pattern e-book to benefit The Hunger Project. I will complete this project, but not as soon as I had hoped.

My new project has to do with pet rescue, which should surprise no one. I want everyone who can to make dog sweaters and blankets and either send or hand deliver them to pet rescue organizations near you. If you have any kind of craft accessory projects you can do for cats, do that as well. Do not send anything to me, but rather to your favorite pet rescue organization. 

I'm not doing any kind of count, no contest, no giveaway. I simply want to encourage people to show some love to the rescue pets. I would be happy to hear about your projects, and whenever I can I will mention them on my Wednesday Free-for-All on YouTube, but I don't need to know. I just need for you to show some love if you can.

I have made several sweaters like this.
Click for pattern.

I have made several copies of this sweater, too.  
Click for the pattern.

Gosh, I'm good!

Scene:  A conversation between me and my Easton Cardigan, hanging on a mannequin

Me:  What would you like to tell the world?

Cardigan:  Um, I dunno. You're the writer. You designed me and created me. The ball's in your court!

Me:  OK. Well, then, here is a little back story. I wanted a cardigan of my own making to wear at a fiber retreat later this month. I had another one in the works, but it has problems. I saw another designer do a simple pullover using granny squares, and I thought it would look great as a cardigan, using two contrasting colors and two kinds of granny square, neither of which is the traditional granny square. (I sort of hate the traditional granny square.) 

Cardigan: That didn't take much prodding. Keep going.

Me:  Well, I had some nice budget yarn in two complementary colors, in sufficient quantity for a cardigan. (Two cardigans, actually. Maybe I'll make another design....)  Once I decided it was time to move forward, I got quite excited about it. I put aside two other designs I was working on--that were giving me difficulty anyway--to make it. I created the front and back panels very quickly, pieced them together, and hung them on the mannequin to ask the help of dear Mr. Gravity in how the pieces hang. (No, I didn't offer burnt offerings up to the god of Gravity, although it doesn't sound like a bad idea.) 

Cardigan: Sounds like all was going well!

Me:  Well, I also completed the sleeves quickly--stripes in the same colors as the squares--but they didn't match up! Ahime! After careful examination, I recognized that counting errors had caused my troubles, and I had committed those errors on both sleeves. I wound up reworking both, but that still didn't take all that long.

Cardigan: Where do you stand now?

Me:  Almost done reworking the second sleeve.  Piecing it together and then finishing with edging, collar, waistband, and buttons will be a piece of cake.  

Cardigan:  Yeah, yeah.....call me when it's done.

THE NEXT DAY

Cardigan: You've been manhandling me all day. What's the story?

Me:  I've finally got you pieced together and all the finishing done. You look quite nice, if I do say so myself!

Cardigan: No thanks to you! Gray tweed and rust tweed together? What were you thinking?

Me: Um, I was thinking those are two color ways that complement each other quite nicely.

Cardigan: Color way? What the heck is a color way?!

Me: Shhh! You don't want to anger the Yarn Police! It's what yarn people call a color. I don't know why. I would say the colors are this and that striped, but they would come up with a fanciful name and call it a color way. So you have two solid-color yarns with a tweed effect, so they are called gray tweed and rust tweed.

Cardigan: Feh!

Me: Don't give me any attitude, you! You know what frogging is, don't you?

Cardigan: Yeah, I know! It's what you did to my sleeves before you made them over.

Me: And now they're much happier and healthier sleeves. 

Cardigan: What an able-ist attitude! You hated my sleeves because they were different!

Me: Your sleeves were not people with disabilities. Your sleeves were components that did not match each other because I myself had made counting errors when creating them. So I recreated them anew. Call me cruel if you will, but would you rather languish at the bottom of a storage bin and be passed around from one thrift shop to another, or be worn with pride among other yarn crafters?

Cardigan: Oh, shut up and show the pictures! I'm done with you!

Me: Just one more thing--sewing in loose ends. This will be a pinch and sting......

LATE THE NEXT DAY

Cardigan:  What now?

Me: I just have to adjust the neck.  Hold still.

Cardigan: I will not hold still! I thought you were done!

Me: And I thought life would be beautiful. Shut up and let me do this!

Cardigan: This had better be worth it!

The finished product!  Finally!

It was worth it.

Ice Yarns on Parade

Yarnnut.com kindly provided some yarn so that I might work up some of my patterns, and they might feature some pics along with either links or printed copies of the patterns. I regret that I am this late in showing off these pictures of hats I have made with the Ice Yarn Macaron that I was supplied.  Here are some pics:

These are iterations of my rice stitch hat, the pattern for which is posted herein as a free pattern.  

All of my hat patterns are free in order to encourage creativity and charitable donations.  Please enjoy.

Story Time: Christmas Blanket

 

The sides are a little ripply.
I didn't follow the pattern instructions
to alternate smaller corner 
increases

Detail of the center.
Final blanket is about 54" square

A friend made a brilliant suggestion of telling the stories behind various finished objects. My first thought: "Blog content!" So here we have the story behind this blanket.

I had quite a lot of green yarn that I had bought for another blanket project. Long-time viewers of my YouTube channel will recall a blanket project I called The Big Green Monster. I recall working on it during some live streams, even. About 2.5 skeins in, I got bored, so I put it aside. At some point I decided I wouldn't pick it up again to finish, so I had several more skeins of yarn and a partial blanket to find a use for.

I had ordered the Christmas yarn from Herrschner's using a substantial discount. They had emailed me this discount code when their database told them it had been over a year since my last order. In addition to a few other things, I ordered two skeins of this Christmas yarn. I had started several different projects using this yarn, but decided against them all. None of them looked right because the variegated yarn was just too busy for the design. 

I then remembered having created a Spiral  Granny Square blanket, based on a design by Krista of The Secret Yarnery. I thought it might be a good way to use a substantial amount of both yarns. It worked! I showed progress on Instagram and on YouTube and received a lot of encouragement.

I had my Hat Not Hate YouTube live stream on July 25. I offered the blanket as a reward to anyone who would sponsor a substantial amount of the postage required to send the hats to Hat Not Hate, as well as  for other giveaway prizes. A generous viewer stepped forward to offer that sponsorship. Now that the blanket is finished, it will soon be off to the sponsor. She has already told me she plans to display the blanket on the back of her sofa during the Christmas season. She is happy. I am happy it will go to a good home. UPS is very happy at the money I've already spent on postage, and they will be happier still in coming weeks as I send this blanket and the hats off!  (Alas, the sponsorship amount has already been spent on giveaway postage, so the rest comes out of the Bearded Yarn Pockets, which aren't all that deep!)

Perhaps not a terribly riveting story, but I hope you enjoy the pictures.

The leftovers. There are still quite
a few untouched skeins of green

 

New pattern: The Gia Hat

Please note: I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate. Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

This hat was created using Ice Yarn Macaron generously supplied by Gia at YarnNut.com, so of course I had to name it for her. Macaron yarn is labeled as a 3, which we in the US would call a DK, but I think it is more a 4, if not a 4.5. This pattern will work with any worsted or chunky (4 or 5) yarn and an 8 mm/L hook. If you choose a lighter weight yarn, you will likely have to adjust row counts and hook size.

My wedge terminology works perfecctly well with this hat, even though the top is done with HDC instead of DC. For more information about my wedge terminology, see this video.

For a larger hat, add a 6th increase round at the top and/or repeat rounds 7 & 8.

Yarn: Any worsted or chunky, such as Ice Yarns Macaron. Solid colors work well, as would some but not all variegated yarns. Self-striping yarns should change colors fairly quickly. Manual color control is also an option to created a striped effect.

Hook: 8 mm/L

Stitches:

Single crochet (SC)
Back-loop single crochet (BLSC)
Hafl-double crochet (HDC)
Double crochet (DC)
Front-post double crochet (FPDC)
Slip stitch (SS)
Slipt stitch to join (SSTJ)

Method:

1. Ch2; work 9 HDC in the 1st ch; SSTJ with 1st HDC.  (Alternately use the magic ring or a ring of chain stitches--use what works for you.) (9)
2. Ch 1; work 2 HDC in each HDC from previous round; SSTJ with 1st HDC. (18)
3. Ch 1; work HDC in 1st HDC, 2 HDC in 2nd st [HDC in next st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ. (27)
4.  Ch 1; work HDC in 1st 2 HDC, 2 HDC in next st [HDC in next 2 st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ. (36)
5. Ch 1; work HDC in 1st 3 HDC, 2 HDC in next st [HDC in next 3 st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ.  (45 for this and all subsequent rounds)
6. Ch 1; SC in same st and every stitch below, SSTJ.
7. Ch 1; SC in 1st st, DC in next st [SC in next st, DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end; add one more SC; SSTJ.
8. Ch 3 (counts as DC), SC in DC below, [DC in next SC below, SC in next DC below] repeat bracketed instructions to end, adding one DC at end; SSTJ.
9. Ch 1;  SC in same st and every stitch below, SSTJ.
10. Ch 1;  SC in same st; BLSC in every subsequent SC below, SSTJ
11. Ch 1; HDC in same st and every subsequent SC below, SS behind the original ch 1.
12. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC); FPDC in every HDC below, SS behind the original ch 3.
13. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC); FPDC in every FPDC below, SSTJ.
14. Ch 1; SC in same st and every subsequent st below, SSTJ
15. Repeat round 14.  Tie off.

Sew in loose ends. Bribe someone to model it on Instagram.  

If you have any questions, please contact me.  

Updated: Rice stitch hat with ribbed top

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

More pics to come later.

Looking at the previous pattern for the rice stitch hat, I was not satisfied with the rice stitch pattern.  I am now combining steps from two previous posts to make the rice stitch hat with a ribbed top.

This works best with a DK yarn, or something on the lighter end of worsted.  The photos above show samples made with Ice Yarns Macaron, which is labeled as a 3/DK yarn, kindly provided by YarnNut.com.  Solids work best, but a self-striping yarn that doesn't take forever to change colors would also work. So would manual color change. A hook no larger than a 5 mm (H) is best.  

This earlier post (video tutorial included) gives further insight if these instructions are not clear.  For further insight into my wedge theory of crochet in the round, see this video tutorial.

1. Complete your initial ring of 12 DCS. Create the initial ring in your favorite way--magic ring, ch4 & ss, ch2 and use the 1st ch as your ring--that's just you crocheting. Slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with the initial DC or initial ch3 that substituted for a DC.  (12 st)   
2. For round 2 we need 2 stitches for each stitch below. Ch 3 in the top of the 1st DC (or ch3), then FPDC in the post of the same DC.  Repeat for each DC in round 1.  SS behind the ch3/initial DC to join. (24 st)
3. Ch3, which counts as 1st FPDC. In FPDC from 1st wedge below, DC in top of next st, FPDC in post of same st.  For each succeeding wedge, FPDC in 1at st, DC + FPDC in 2nd st.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC. SS behind the 1st ch3 to join.  (36 st)  
4. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-DC-FPDC.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.  (48 st)
5. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., FPDC in next DC, DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SS in top of the initial ch 3 to join.  (60 st)
6. Ch 3 (counts as DC), FPDC around post of same DC/ch3, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SSTJ in the manner appropriate for the next round, which should be without any increases at all.  If the disc is too large, it is possible to omit this round without ill effects. In fact, for children's sizes this would also work with only 4 rounds. Take care that every round from here to the end contains the exact same number of stitches.
7. If you did not work round 6 of the initial disc, ch 3 (still counts as 1st DC, forever and aye) and DC in every DC from previous round.  For the next round, ch 3, FPDC in post of next DC, [DC in next DC, FPDC in next DC] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ.  If you did work round 6 of initial disc, omit this step. 
8. For the succeeded rounds, work a DC in every FPDC from the previous round, and a FPDC around the post of every plain DC from the previous round.  Join the end of every round in a manner to indicate the 1st DC of the next round--if the first st in the next round is to be a FPDC, join behind the initial ch 3/DC of this round, but if the first stitch in the next round is to be a regular DC, join at the top of the initial ch 3/DC of this round.  Continue working until hat has reached desired size.
9. Finish with a round of SC in every st.  Tie off.  Sew in loose ends.  Take selfie for Instagram.

Crystal Wave Hat

 

Crystal Wave Hat

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

The hat's inspiration comes from a tutorial that Crystal/Bag-O-Day Crochet posted for a new cowl pattern, featuring some amazing yarn from The Paw Ply Yarn Co..  I thought the stitch sequence would make a great hat, and based on an informal survey of yarnies, I decided on the name Crystal Wave Hat, to honor Crystal.

Yarn:  Any solid-color worsted weight yarn, such as Lion Brand Pound of Love.  Would also work with a DK weight yarn.   Approximately 105 yards/95 m.  Approximately 70 yards/64 m. of a primary color, 35 yards/32 m. of a highlight color.  Your mileage may vary.

Hook:  5.5 mm/I

Stitches:  Chain (ch), single crochet (SC), half-double crochet (HDC), double crochet (DC), slip stitch (SS) [SSTJ = slip stitch to join]

The best way to adjust size is to alter the hook size and/or yarn weight, because this pattern works best if the number of stitches in each round of the body is a multiple of 10 (5 rows x 12 st = 60)

Method:

Create initial disc:

1. Using highlight color, ch 4, slip stitch to join (SSTJ) into a ring;  Ch 3 (counts as DC here and throughout), work 11 more DCs in the ring.  SSTJ in top of ch 3. (12 DC total, including ch 3). 
2. Ch 3, DC in same stitch, 2 DC in each DC from previous round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3. (24 DC total) Change color for the next round.
3. Using the primary color, ch 3, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.  (36 DC total)
4. Ch 3, DC in next st, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next 2 st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.  (48 DC total) Change color for the next round.
5. Using highlight color, ch 3, DC in next 2 st, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next 3 st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.   (60 DC total)

Please note, if you would like more information about how to crochet in the round like this, see my video tutorial here.

Body of hat:

1. Staying with the highlight color, ch 1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round, and in every st of the round.  SSTJ in the 1st SC. When working a round of SC I find it useful to place a stitch marker in the 1st SC to make clear exactly where to join at the end and avoid confusion with the ch1.  (60 st in this and every subsequent round.)  Change to primary color.
   
   First section:
2. Using primary color, ch1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round, HDC in next st, DC in next 5 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch1, skip 1; [SC in the next st, HDC in next st, DC in next 5 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch1, skip 1]  work bracketed instructions 5 times, SSTJ in the 1st SC.
3. Repeat round 2. Change to highlight color
4. Using highlight color, ch 1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round and in the next 8 stitches. If you are not in a position to make your next stitch into the ch1 spaces below, recheck your counting.  DC into the ch1 space 2 rows below. [SC in next 9 stitches, DC in ch 1 space 2 rows below.] Work bracketed instructions 5 times, SSTJ in 1st SC.  Change to primary color.
   
   Offset section:
5. Using primary color, ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 2 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch 1, sk 1.  For the offset to appear correct, the ch1 space must be aligned to the 3rd DC of the primary color section below. If not, recheck your counting. [SC in next st, HDC in next st, DC in next 5 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch 1, sk 1] work bracketed instructions 4 times, ensuring alignment each time; SC in next st, HDC in next st, DC in next 2 st, SSTJ in top of ch3.
6. Repeat round 5.  Change to highlight color.
7. Using highlight color, ch 1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round and in the next 4 st.  If you are not in a position to make your next stitch into the ch1 spaces below, recheck your counting.  DC into the ch1 space 2 rows below. [SC in next 9 stitches, DC in ch 1 space 2 rows below.] Work bracketed instructions 5 times; SC in next 5 st, SSTJ in 1st SC.  Change to primary color.
   
   
8. R 8,9,10:  repeat R 2,3,4
9. Optional R 11,12,13:  repeat R 5,6,7
10. Add a row of SC in either color.  

For the body of the hat, proper arrangement of the offset sections is crucial for the hat to look its best.  This is where counting is essential.  For each offset section to appear correctly, the 3rd DC of 5 must be directly above the border DC and ch spaces from previous rows, and the ch spaces and border DC must be directly above the 3rd DC of 5 in the previous rows.  

Optional:  If you include the additional rounds in step 9, your hat might be long enough to look like a flapper hat.  Consider adding a crocheted flower or leaf in the highlight color as an ornament.

Sew in loose ends.  Bribe someone to model it for Instagram pictures.  

Please address any questions or comments to beardedyarndudes@deb8.biz.

Another hat pattern!

 Alicia Stitch Hat

This hat is an excellent accompaniment to my Alicia Shawl pattern, which at my Ravelry store here.

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator.

All my links: https://linktr.ee/BeardedYarnDudes

An earlier iteration.  

Yarn:  Any solid or variegated DK or worsted weight yarn. I am quite fond of Lion Brand Jeans for this hat (see pics), but many others would work. I hesitate to recommend a self-striping yarn, unless the stripe is shorter than those found in Lion Brand Mandala, for example.  (Although I am exceedingly fond of Lion Brand Mandala for other patterns.)

Hook:  5.0 (H) or 5.5 (I), or other hook to suit the yarn.

Stitches:  

• chain (ch) 
• single crochet (SC)
• back-loop single crochet (SC working in the back loop of the stitch rather than both loops)
• half-double crochet (HDC)
• double crochet (DC)
• front-post double crochet (DC working around the post to push it forward, rather than the top of the stitch)
• back-post double crochet (DC working around the post to push it back, rather than the top of the stitch)
• slip stitch (SS)
• chain 1 space (ch 1 sp)

Hat top:

Ch 4, slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with first ch, creating a ring; alternately use the magic ring

1. ch 4 (counts as DC + ch), DC in the ring, ch1, [DC in the ring, ch1] repeat until there are 6 DCs and 6 ch 1 spaces, SSTJ in the 3rd ch of the ch 4 that began the round (6 DC + 6 ch 1 sp) 

2. ch 4 (counts as DC + ch), DC in the ch where the SS from previous round is located, [ch1, DC in next ch 1 space, ch 1, DC in next DC] repeat until the last DC has been worked, ch 1 + DC in last ch 1 space, ch 1, SSTJ in 3rd ch of the ch 4 that began the round (12 DC + 12 ch 1 sp)

3. ch 3 (counts as DC), 2 DC in next ch 1 sp, [DC in next DC, 2 DC in next ch 1 sp] repeat to the end of the round, SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began the round (36 DC)

4. ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next DC, 2 DC in next DC, [DC in next DC, DC in next DC, 2 DC in next DC] repeat to the end of the round, SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began the round (48 DC)

5. ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 2 DCs, 2 DC in next DC, [DC in next 3 DCs, 2 DC in next DC] repeat to the end of the round, SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began the round (60 DC)

6. ch 4 (counts as DC + ch 1), skip 1, DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1, DC, ch 1, [DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1, DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1, DC, ch 1] repeat to end of round, SSTJ in 3rd ch of ch 4 that began the round (36 DC + 36 ch 1 sp)

Measure your hat top after round 5. If the diameter is 7.5 in (19 (cm) the hat brim will measure 22-23 in (56-58 cm). If you omit round 6—or indeed, 5 and 6--it will have no negative effect on the final hat.

Side of hat: 

(each round has the same number of stitches as the last round of the top)

1. Ch 4 (counts as DC + ch1), skip 1*,  [DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1] repeat to end of round, SSTJ in 3rd ch of the ch 4 that began the round. Optional: omit this round, or work R 2 and then R 1.   *If previous round is all DC, skip 1 DC; if previous round alternates DC and 1 ch 1 sp, skip the ch 1 sp.
2. Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in every ch 1 sp and DC of previous round, SSTJ at top of ch 3 that began the round
3. Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in every DC of previous round, SSTJ at top of ch 3 that began the round 
4. Ch 1, HDC in the same st where you worked a SSTJ, HDC in all remaining DC from previous round, SSTJ
5. Ch 1, SC in the same st where you worked a SSTJ, BLSC in all remaining HDC from previous round, SSTJ
6. Repeat R 1, working with SC from previous round
7. Repeat R 2, work SSTJ behind the ch 3 that began the round, not in the top ch
8. Ch 3 (counts as FPDC), BPDC in next DC, [FPDC in next DC, BPDC in next DC] repeat to end of round.  If more height is required, repeat this round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began this round. If less height is required, omit this round entirely and consider working round 9 twice.
9. Ch 1, SC in ch where you worked SSTJ in previous round, and in all remaining stitches from the previous round.  Tie off

Sew in loose ends.  Bribe someone to model it for Instagram pictures.  

Please address any questions or comments to beardedyarndudes@deb8.biz.

Support your favorite content creators

I am semi-retired. That means the thought that I could get another corporate job like I had before is ludicrous (plus it also makes me want to die), and I couldn't physically do the kind of lower-level jobs I now qualify for. I am waiting to hear about a Disability claim, but not holding my breath. In the meantime, crochet and social media are both an avocation and an occupation that has potential to bring income. It is one of several activities that have potential to bring in income. Toward that end, I would like to make the following points known.

If you are reading my blog, I assume there is a level of good will concerning my activities and efforts. Based on an excellent live stream video from J.Hook Crochet, a fellow YouTube content creator whom I highly recommend, I have the following suggestions:

• If you like a post in this blog or any of my blogs, comment at the blog, not the Facebook post where I linked the blog.
• If you like a post in this blog or any of my blogs, share it. I don't have Pinterest or TikTok, but I certainly don't object if those who do have them link me or talk about me there. If a particular post moves you, talk about it freely everywhere. 
• If you have a way to follow this blog or any social media outlet where I have presence, then subscribe and designate notifications for all new posts.
• In blogs, on YouTube, on Instagram--comments are gold. Since Google controls the whole world, and knows the connection between my three blogs, my two Instagram pages, my two Facebook business pages (plus a dormant one I'm considering resurrecting), and my individual Facebook ID, what I had for breakfast, and what I might have for dinner two weeks hence, commenting to one helps all.
• I know YouTube is already playing ads on my videos, even though I don't yet qualify to receive any  benefit from them. Regardless, if you play the ad through, eventually I as content creator will benefit and the evil advertiser will pay more. Always remember that:  if you play the ad all the way through, the evil advertiser pays more. And remember that on TV we would always use commercials as time for a bio-break or to refill a beverage. (For the record, the advertisements you see are based on your browsing history and interests, and I have absolutely no control over them.)
• All comments are welcome. On the other hand, if you wish to bring to my attention a technical issue with my A/V setup, usually the issue will not have escaped my notice. I am learning a lot of new things in this content creator journey. But do comment. I promise not to post a snarky reply. Well, I'll try to resist.....
• The media outlets evaluate how much time people spend with your videos. That is why content creators are always asking you to watch to the end. I ask you to do the same. Am I so annoying that you don't have a few more minutes to help me out?
• Please. Watch freely. Enjoy all the content creators you enjoy. Whatever you can fit into your life--and I know some people have more time for social media than others. But watch freely. It doesn't even matter if you're paying attention! (But don't tell our Google Overlords that I said that! I will deny it to my dying byte! Or not.)
• If you follow a content creator who sells stuff, consider buying stuff. Some yarn content creators sell finished objects. I sell patterns and merch. If you're struggling to feed your family don't buy my stuff, or anyone else's. If you have a few extra shekels, give it some thought. 

Just a few thoughts. I welcome your opinions.

The video I reference:

Crochet in the round with ribs!

Mmmmm!  Ribs!  Yummy!

Alas, I'm not talking about barbecued ribs today, but with the ribbing effect that can be achieved when crocheting in the round.  Normal crochet in the round is so mundane and boring, it is assumed everyone knows how to do it, but if you don't, here is a tutorial:

To review, I start with a circle of 12 DCs;, which is the most common starting round I have seen.  Each of those 12 DCs is the point of a wedge--in the second round there are 2 DCs, in the third round 3 DCs, etc., each emanating from the initial DC.  That is how the required increases to create a true piece in the round are accomplished.

But.

Let us assume we want more texture, perhaps a texture to go along with the stitch that is used on the side of that hat.  Here is one way to accomplish that.

1. Complete your initial ring of 12 DCS. I don't care how the ring is accomplished--magic ring, ch4 & ss, ch2 and use the 1st ch as your ring--that's just you crocheting. Slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with the initial DC or initial ch3 that substituted for a DC.  (12 st)
2. For round 2 we need 2 stitches for each stitch below. Ch 3 in the top of the 1st DC (or ch3), then FPDC in the post of the same DC.  Repeat for each DC in round 1.  SS behind the ch3 to join. (24 st)
3. Ch3, which counts as 1st FPDC. In FPDC from 1st wedge below, DC in top of next st, FPDC in post of same st.  For each succeeding wedge, FPDC in 1at st, DC + FPDC in 2nd st.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC. SS behind the 1st ch3 to join.  (36 st)
4. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-DC-FPDC.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.  (48 st)
5. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., FPDC in next DC, DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SS in top of the initial ch 3 to join.  (60 st)
6. Ch 3 (counts as DC), FPDC around post of same DC/ch3, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SSTJ in the manner appropriate for the next round, which should be without any increases at all.

You can now continue with the ribbing for the entire vertical portion of the hat, or you can execute a rice stitch by alternating FPDC in every DC from the previous round, and DC in every FPDC from the previous round.  The choice is entirely yours!

Hat with ribbed top

Hat with flat top

New hat pattern!

Rice Stitch Hat

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

Yarn:  Any worsted weight yarn, such as Lion Brand Pound of Love.  Would also work with a DK weight yarn.   Approximately 105 yards/95 m.

Hook:  5.5 mm/I

Stitches:  Chain (ch), single crochet (SC), double crochet (DC), front-loop double crochet (FLDC), slip stitch (SS)

Size can be adjusted by altering the number of circle rounds and rows of rice stitch.  You could also use different sizes of yarn or hook sizes.  If you use a different number of rounds for the circle, make sure you join at the end of the last round in the manner described in step 5 below.

Method:

Create initial disc:

1. Ch 4, slip stitch to join (SSTJ) into a ring.  
2. Ch 3 (counts as DC here and throughout), work 11 more DCs.  SSTJ in top of ch 3. (12 DC total, including ch 3)
3. Ch 3, DC in same stitch, 2 DC in each DC from previous round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3. (24 DC total)
4. Ch 3, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.  (36 DC total)
5. Ch 3, DC in next st, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next 2 st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.  (48 DC total)
6. Ch 3, DC in next 2 st, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next 3 st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SS behind ch 3 to join.  (60 DC total)

Body of hat:

1. Ch 3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st, [FPDC in next st., DC in next st.] repeat bracketed instructions to end of row, SSTJ in top of ch 3. 
2. Ch 3, FPDC in next st, [DC in FPDC below, FPDC in DC below] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SS behind ch 3 to join.
3. Ch 3, DC in next st, [FPDC in next DC below, DC in FPDC below] repeat bracketed instructions to end of row, SSTJ in top of ch 3. 
4. Repeat rows 2 and 3, until hat has reached desired size. Whether you end on a row 2 or a row 3 does not matter.
5. Ch 1.  SC in same st, and in every st below. SSTJ in 1st  SC (60 SC)
6. Repeat previous row.  Tie off.

Sew in loose ends.  Bribe someone to model it for Instagram pictures.  

Please address any questions or comments to beardedyarndudes@deb8.biz.

A new pattern--April Rectangle Shawl

Everybody and her sister has been creating ponchos recently, so I had to jump on the bandwagon.  I came up with this easy poncho, and it is now available on my Ravelry store:

10 Non-Yarny Things About Me

Apparently it's meme season again, ladies and gentlemen.  I was tagged with the list meme to divulge 10 non-yarny things about me.  I prepared a video about this, but had technical difficulties in uploading it.  I actually did talk about it when I did a live stream on Mother's Day. But I will also share it here:

1. My undergraduate degree is in music ed. When I started college I wanted to lead high school choruses, but when I finished I wanted to be an opera singer.
2. I didn’t finish high school.  The college I chose had a program where excellent students could dive right into college after completing 11th grade.  I do not regret that decision.
3. I have been in at least three graduate programs, but still do not have a graduate degree.  I have most of a Master of Music in voice, which I attempted at two different schools, and I also started an MBA but lost interest.
4. I have failed at a real estate career in three different states.
5. I worship and adore dogs with all my heart (no big surprise there), but I am terrified of actually taking on the responsibility of dog ownership. I can hardly take care of myself!
6. I have met, studied with, and interviewed for writing projects, some of the most famous opera singers in the world. Some of them are still very kind to me.
7. The very best summer of my life was one summer when I was in school, when I spent six weeks in Austria, mostly in Salzburg.  (Carol Vaness, are you listening?  I still have reactions that I don’t usually share with girls when I think of your Vitellia in Clemenza di Tito.)  The second best would be in 2010, when my husband and I visited Munich, and one of our amazing adventures was a day trip to Salzburg.  I was totally unprepared for the emotional reaction I would have when we were there.  (Equally as joyful was Augsburg, near his mother’s birth place, and where we learned his Opa had been part of rebuilding the Dom after the war.)
8. I consider my succession of occupations outside of music as sort of slurping from one thing to the next.  I was an administrative assistant for a financial PR/advertising/printing firm, then a financial typesetter because I convinced people I had a brain and could learn, and then I used typesetting languages for programming of data-driven printing, then I started doing documentation and project management in that realm…...then I got laid off and never really wanted to go back.  Hence the subsequent forays into real estate.
9. I owe my love of poetry to the NYC subway system. There was a program (possibly still is) in cooperation with the Poetry Society of America called Poetry in Motion, where poems and poetry excerpts would be displayed in subways cars where normally there were paid advertisements. Seen the same passages day after day, reading them repeatedly, led me to appreciate them very much. I had previously thought I hadn’t the patience for poetry, but I do. I love the compact and skillful use of language to relate ideas and themes and feelings.
10. In the same way that I love poetry, I love all skillful use of language. I love 19th century Brit-Lit (Jane Austen was such a babe!), I love Shakespeare, and I love well written comedies and dramas of the golden age of movies and television.
11. (Bonus item)  I felt an amazing sense of entitlement when I turned 50.  “I don’t have to do that!  I’m 50 years old!”  On my 50th birthday I bought myself a BMW.  I was delighted with my own generosity.  I loved that car.  But I loved the VW Passat I had after that as well.  What car would I choose if I could buy a new car now?  Probably a Kia Stinger.  Or not.  Who knows?

HAT NOT HATE CONTEST--READ TO THE END!

Please forgive the verbosity of this post. I used to write technical requirements documents, so I have learned to regret it when I fail to cross every T and dot every I. Much of the yarn I have bought and that I have received as gifts is blue--perfect for HatNotHate (hatnothate.org). I have already made 25 blue hats as of April 16. I am determined to use as much of the blue yarn I have as possible for blue hats that meet HatNotHate requirements. Here we come to the purpose of this post--a CONTEST! There are two ways to win--correctly the guess the number of hats I can complete by July 21 (to meet the August 1 deadline); or correctly guess how much yarn I will have left over once I'm done. Enter your answers in the comments to the YouTube post linked below, as well as news of your own efforts to assist HatNotHate. Quantity of leftover yarn will be expressed in both yards and meters, and I will determine an average weight of yarn per meter to avoid doing algebra separately on each partial skein of yarn. (Although I'm good at algebra.) After the contest closes at 11:59 p.m. (eastern US) on July 21, I will create a video where I publicly show how many hats I have made, as well as the formula I determine for calculating the yarn remaining. I will also show the giveaway prizes. The entire process will be transparent. The winning entry will be determined manually, by recording each guess, each entrant, and the date of the guess in a spreadsheet, then sorting the spreadsheet entries in numerical order for the guesses. I will also verify subscription status and filter out duplicate entries. In order to avoid any appearance of being influenced by guesses or entrants (hardly likely, since I have a mind like a sieve), this will occur after the closing of the contest, and will likely cause a lag between the closing and the posting of a winner video on or before July 31. Unless a huge and glaring error is brought to my attention (at MY discretion), the winners declared in my winner video will be the final decision. Further rules and declarations:

• To enter leave a comment with your guess to either or both questions in the comments to the YouTube post linked below. That is the only way to enter. Winning entries will be guesses closest to the actual answers of the two questions. If there are two or more entries with winning guesses, the entry that is received earliest as visible to me will be the winner.
• You must be 18 or over to enter.
• You must be subscribed to my YouTube channel to enter. If I can't see your subscription because of your settings, your entry is disqualified. There is NO other way that I will verify a subscription status other than being able to see your subscription through MY YouTube Dashboard.
• One entry per person, but answering the two questions with two entries is allowed.
• Open worldwide. If the winner is outside the US, I accept no responsibility for any taxes, duties, or other expenses beyond the postage to send the package. International winners also have an option of receiving an e-gift card.
• You must be able to receive contest prizes AND packages of yarn wherever you live.
• This endeavor is not sponsored by YouTube, any yarn manufacturer or distributor, or anyone except my wallet and the generosity of a few who have gifted me with blue yarn.
• Guess(es) will stand for the qualifying question in countries where this is required. If I learn after the date of this post that this is not legal or allowed by YouTube, this rule will be updated. Finally, please do not take this as an appeal for more blue yarn. I only have two hands!

#hatenothate  @LionBrandYarn  #lionbrandyarn

My Hat Not Hate contest:  https://www.youtube.com/post/UgxlCXezcFH-yaIREoN4AaABCQ