Updated: Rice stitch hat with ribbed top

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

More pics to come later.

Looking at the previous pattern for the rice stitch hat, I was not satisfied with the rice stitch pattern.  I am now combining steps from two previous posts to make the rice stitch hat with a ribbed top.

This works best with a DK yarn, or something on the lighter end of worsted.  The photos above show samples made with Ice Yarns Macaron, which is labeled as a 3/DK yarn, kindly provided by YarnNut.com.  Solids work best, but a self-striping yarn that doesn't take forever to change colors would also work. So would manual color change. A hook no larger than a 5 mm (H) is best.  

This earlier post (video tutorial included) gives further insight if these instructions are not clear.  For further insight into my wedge theory of crochet in the round, see this video tutorial.

1. Complete your initial ring of 12 DCS. Create the initial ring in your favorite way--magic ring, ch4 & ss, ch2 and use the 1st ch as your ring--that's just you crocheting. Slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with the initial DC or initial ch3 that substituted for a DC.  (12 st)   
2. For round 2 we need 2 stitches for each stitch below. Ch 3 in the top of the 1st DC (or ch3), then FPDC in the post of the same DC.  Repeat for each DC in round 1.  SS behind the ch3/initial DC to join. (24 st)
3. Ch3, which counts as 1st FPDC. In FPDC from 1st wedge below, DC in top of next st, FPDC in post of same st.  For each succeeding wedge, FPDC in 1at st, DC + FPDC in 2nd st.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC. SS behind the 1st ch3 to join.  (36 st)  
4. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-DC-FPDC.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.  (48 st)
5. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., FPDC in next DC, DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SS in top of the initial ch 3 to join.  (60 st)
6. Ch 3 (counts as DC), FPDC around post of same DC/ch3, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SSTJ in the manner appropriate for the next round, which should be without any increases at all.  If the disc is too large, it is possible to omit this round without ill effects. In fact, for children's sizes this would also work with only 4 rounds. Take care that every round from here to the end contains the exact same number of stitches.
7. If you did not work round 6 of the initial disc, ch 3 (still counts as 1st DC, forever and aye) and DC in every DC from previous round.  For the next round, ch 3, FPDC in post of next DC, [DC in next DC, FPDC in next DC] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ.  If you did work round 6 of initial disc, omit this step. 
8. For the succeeded rounds, work a DC in every FPDC from the previous round, and a FPDC around the post of every plain DC from the previous round.  Join the end of every round in a manner to indicate the 1st DC of the next round--if the first st in the next round is to be a FPDC, join behind the initial ch 3/DC of this round, but if the first stitch in the next round is to be a regular DC, join at the top of the initial ch 3/DC of this round.  Continue working until hat has reached desired size.
9. Finish with a round of SC in every st.  Tie off.  Sew in loose ends.  Take selfie for Instagram.