New pattern: The Gia Hat

Please note: I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate. Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

This hat was created using Ice Yarn Macaron generously supplied by Gia at YarnNut.com, so of course I had to name it for her. Macaron yarn is labeled as a 3, which we in the US would call a DK, but I think it is more a 4, if not a 4.5. This pattern will work with any worsted or chunky (4 or 5) yarn and an 8 mm/L hook. If you choose a lighter weight yarn, you will likely have to adjust row counts and hook size.

My wedge terminology works perfecctly well with this hat, even though the top is done with HDC instead of DC. For more information about my wedge terminology, see this video.

For a larger hat, add a 6th increase round at the top and/or repeat rounds 7 & 8.

Yarn: Any worsted or chunky, such as Ice Yarns Macaron. Solid colors work well, as would some but not all variegated yarns. Self-striping yarns should change colors fairly quickly. Manual color control is also an option to created a striped effect.

Hook: 8 mm/L

Stitches:

Single crochet (SC)
Back-loop single crochet (BLSC)
Hafl-double crochet (HDC)
Double crochet (DC)
Front-post double crochet (FPDC)
Slip stitch (SS)
Slipt stitch to join (SSTJ)

Method:

1. Ch2; work 9 HDC in the 1st ch; SSTJ with 1st HDC.  (Alternately use the magic ring or a ring of chain stitches--use what works for you.) (9)
2. Ch 1; work 2 HDC in each HDC from previous round; SSTJ with 1st HDC. (18)
3. Ch 1; work HDC in 1st HDC, 2 HDC in 2nd st [HDC in next st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ. (27)
4.  Ch 1; work HDC in 1st 2 HDC, 2 HDC in next st [HDC in next 2 st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ. (36)
5. Ch 1; work HDC in 1st 3 HDC, 2 HDC in next st [HDC in next 3 st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ.  (45 for this and all subsequent rounds)
6. Ch 1; SC in same st and every stitch below, SSTJ.
7. Ch 1; SC in 1st st, DC in next st [SC in next st, DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end; add one more SC; SSTJ.
8. Ch 3 (counts as DC), SC in DC below, [DC in next SC below, SC in next DC below] repeat bracketed instructions to end, adding one DC at end; SSTJ.
9. Ch 1;  SC in same st and every stitch below, SSTJ.
10. Ch 1;  SC in same st; BLSC in every subsequent SC below, SSTJ
11. Ch 1; HDC in same st and every subsequent SC below, SS behind the original ch 1.
12. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC); FPDC in every HDC below, SS behind the original ch 3.
13. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC); FPDC in every FPDC below, SSTJ.
14. Ch 1; SC in same st and every subsequent st below, SSTJ
15. Repeat round 14.  Tie off.

Sew in loose ends. Bribe someone to model it on Instagram.  

If you have any questions, please contact me.  

Updated: Rice stitch hat with ribbed top

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

More pics to come later.

Looking at the previous pattern for the rice stitch hat, I was not satisfied with the rice stitch pattern.  I am now combining steps from two previous posts to make the rice stitch hat with a ribbed top.

This works best with a DK yarn, or something on the lighter end of worsted.  The photos above show samples made with Ice Yarns Macaron, which is labeled as a 3/DK yarn, kindly provided by YarnNut.com.  Solids work best, but a self-striping yarn that doesn't take forever to change colors would also work. So would manual color change. A hook no larger than a 5 mm (H) is best.  

This earlier post (video tutorial included) gives further insight if these instructions are not clear.  For further insight into my wedge theory of crochet in the round, see this video tutorial.

1. Complete your initial ring of 12 DCS. Create the initial ring in your favorite way--magic ring, ch4 & ss, ch2 and use the 1st ch as your ring--that's just you crocheting. Slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with the initial DC or initial ch3 that substituted for a DC.  (12 st)   
2. For round 2 we need 2 stitches for each stitch below. Ch 3 in the top of the 1st DC (or ch3), then FPDC in the post of the same DC.  Repeat for each DC in round 1.  SS behind the ch3/initial DC to join. (24 st)
3. Ch3, which counts as 1st FPDC. In FPDC from 1st wedge below, DC in top of next st, FPDC in post of same st.  For each succeeding wedge, FPDC in 1at st, DC + FPDC in 2nd st.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC. SS behind the 1st ch3 to join.  (36 st)  
4. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-DC-FPDC.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.  (48 st)
5. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., FPDC in next DC, DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SS in top of the initial ch 3 to join.  (60 st)
6. Ch 3 (counts as DC), FPDC around post of same DC/ch3, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SSTJ in the manner appropriate for the next round, which should be without any increases at all.  If the disc is too large, it is possible to omit this round without ill effects. In fact, for children's sizes this would also work with only 4 rounds. Take care that every round from here to the end contains the exact same number of stitches.
7. If you did not work round 6 of the initial disc, ch 3 (still counts as 1st DC, forever and aye) and DC in every DC from previous round.  For the next round, ch 3, FPDC in post of next DC, [DC in next DC, FPDC in next DC] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ.  If you did work round 6 of initial disc, omit this step. 
8. For the succeeded rounds, work a DC in every FPDC from the previous round, and a FPDC around the post of every plain DC from the previous round.  Join the end of every round in a manner to indicate the 1st DC of the next round--if the first st in the next round is to be a FPDC, join behind the initial ch 3/DC of this round, but if the first stitch in the next round is to be a regular DC, join at the top of the initial ch 3/DC of this round.  Continue working until hat has reached desired size.
9. Finish with a round of SC in every st.  Tie off.  Sew in loose ends.  Take selfie for Instagram.