Ice Yarns on Parade

Yarnnut.com kindly provided some yarn so that I might work up some of my patterns, and they might feature some pics along with either links or printed copies of the patterns. I regret that I am this late in showing off these pictures of hats I have made with the Ice Yarn Macaron that I was supplied.  Here are some pics:

These are iterations of my rice stitch hat, the pattern for which is posted herein as a free pattern.  

All of my hat patterns are free in order to encourage creativity and charitable donations.  Please enjoy.

Story Time: Christmas Blanket

 

The sides are a little ripply.
I didn't follow the pattern instructions
to alternate smaller corner 
increases

Detail of the center.
Final blanket is about 54" square

A friend made a brilliant suggestion of telling the stories behind various finished objects. My first thought: "Blog content!" So here we have the story behind this blanket.

I had quite a lot of green yarn that I had bought for another blanket project. Long-time viewers of my YouTube channel will recall a blanket project I called The Big Green Monster. I recall working on it during some live streams, even. About 2.5 skeins in, I got bored, so I put it aside. At some point I decided I wouldn't pick it up again to finish, so I had several more skeins of yarn and a partial blanket to find a use for.

I had ordered the Christmas yarn from Herrschner's using a substantial discount. They had emailed me this discount code when their database told them it had been over a year since my last order. In addition to a few other things, I ordered two skeins of this Christmas yarn. I had started several different projects using this yarn, but decided against them all. None of them looked right because the variegated yarn was just too busy for the design. 

I then remembered having created a Spiral  Granny Square blanket, based on a design by Krista of The Secret Yarnery. I thought it might be a good way to use a substantial amount of both yarns. It worked! I showed progress on Instagram and on YouTube and received a lot of encouragement.

I had my Hat Not Hate YouTube live stream on July 25. I offered the blanket as a reward to anyone who would sponsor a substantial amount of the postage required to send the hats to Hat Not Hate, as well as  for other giveaway prizes. A generous viewer stepped forward to offer that sponsorship. Now that the blanket is finished, it will soon be off to the sponsor. She has already told me she plans to display the blanket on the back of her sofa during the Christmas season. She is happy. I am happy it will go to a good home. UPS is very happy at the money I've already spent on postage, and they will be happier still in coming weeks as I send this blanket and the hats off!  (Alas, the sponsorship amount has already been spent on giveaway postage, so the rest comes out of the Bearded Yarn Pockets, which aren't all that deep!)

Perhaps not a terribly riveting story, but I hope you enjoy the pictures.

The leftovers. There are still quite
a few untouched skeins of green

 

New pattern: The Gia Hat

Please note: I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate. Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

This hat was created using Ice Yarn Macaron generously supplied by Gia at YarnNut.com, so of course I had to name it for her. Macaron yarn is labeled as a 3, which we in the US would call a DK, but I think it is more a 4, if not a 4.5. This pattern will work with any worsted or chunky (4 or 5) yarn and an 8 mm/L hook. If you choose a lighter weight yarn, you will likely have to adjust row counts and hook size.

My wedge terminology works perfecctly well with this hat, even though the top is done with HDC instead of DC. For more information about my wedge terminology, see this video.

For a larger hat, add a 6th increase round at the top and/or repeat rounds 7 & 8.

Yarn: Any worsted or chunky, such as Ice Yarns Macaron. Solid colors work well, as would some but not all variegated yarns. Self-striping yarns should change colors fairly quickly. Manual color control is also an option to created a striped effect.

Hook: 8 mm/L

Stitches:

Single crochet (SC)
Back-loop single crochet (BLSC)
Hafl-double crochet (HDC)
Double crochet (DC)
Front-post double crochet (FPDC)
Slip stitch (SS)
Slipt stitch to join (SSTJ)

Method:

1. Ch2; work 9 HDC in the 1st ch; SSTJ with 1st HDC.  (Alternately use the magic ring or a ring of chain stitches--use what works for you.) (9)
2. Ch 1; work 2 HDC in each HDC from previous round; SSTJ with 1st HDC. (18)
3. Ch 1; work HDC in 1st HDC, 2 HDC in 2nd st [HDC in next st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ. (27)
4.  Ch 1; work HDC in 1st 2 HDC, 2 HDC in next st [HDC in next 2 st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ. (36)
5. Ch 1; work HDC in 1st 3 HDC, 2 HDC in next st [HDC in next 3 st, 2 HDC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end, SSTJ.  (45 for this and all subsequent rounds)
6. Ch 1; SC in same st and every stitch below, SSTJ.
7. Ch 1; SC in 1st st, DC in next st [SC in next st, DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end; add one more SC; SSTJ.
8. Ch 3 (counts as DC), SC in DC below, [DC in next SC below, SC in next DC below] repeat bracketed instructions to end, adding one DC at end; SSTJ.
9. Ch 1;  SC in same st and every stitch below, SSTJ.
10. Ch 1;  SC in same st; BLSC in every subsequent SC below, SSTJ
11. Ch 1; HDC in same st and every subsequent SC below, SS behind the original ch 1.
12. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC); FPDC in every HDC below, SS behind the original ch 3.
13. Ch 3 (counts as 1st FPDC); FPDC in every FPDC below, SSTJ.
14. Ch 1; SC in same st and every subsequent st below, SSTJ
15. Repeat round 14.  Tie off.

Sew in loose ends. Bribe someone to model it on Instagram.  

If you have any questions, please contact me.  

Updated: Rice stitch hat with ribbed top

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

More pics to come later.

Looking at the previous pattern for the rice stitch hat, I was not satisfied with the rice stitch pattern.  I am now combining steps from two previous posts to make the rice stitch hat with a ribbed top.

This works best with a DK yarn, or something on the lighter end of worsted.  The photos above show samples made with Ice Yarns Macaron, which is labeled as a 3/DK yarn, kindly provided by YarnNut.com.  Solids work best, but a self-striping yarn that doesn't take forever to change colors would also work. So would manual color change. A hook no larger than a 5 mm (H) is best.  

This earlier post (video tutorial included) gives further insight if these instructions are not clear.  For further insight into my wedge theory of crochet in the round, see this video tutorial.

1. Complete your initial ring of 12 DCS. Create the initial ring in your favorite way--magic ring, ch4 & ss, ch2 and use the 1st ch as your ring--that's just you crocheting. Slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with the initial DC or initial ch3 that substituted for a DC.  (12 st)   
2. For round 2 we need 2 stitches for each stitch below. Ch 3 in the top of the 1st DC (or ch3), then FPDC in the post of the same DC.  Repeat for each DC in round 1.  SS behind the ch3/initial DC to join. (24 st)
3. Ch3, which counts as 1st FPDC. In FPDC from 1st wedge below, DC in top of next st, FPDC in post of same st.  For each succeeding wedge, FPDC in 1at st, DC + FPDC in 2nd st.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC. SS behind the 1st ch3 to join.  (36 st)  
4. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-DC-FPDC.  SS behind the initial ch 3 to join.  (48 st)
5. Ch3 (counts as FPDC), DC in next st., FPDC in next DC, DC in top of next st., FPDC around post of same st.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SS in top of the initial ch 3 to join.  (60 st)
6. Ch 3 (counts as DC), FPDC around post of same DC/ch3, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC, DC in next DC, FPDC in next FPDC.  Repeat for each wedge.  Each wedge has the pattern DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC-DC-FPDC.  SSTJ in the manner appropriate for the next round, which should be without any increases at all.  If the disc is too large, it is possible to omit this round without ill effects. In fact, for children's sizes this would also work with only 4 rounds. Take care that every round from here to the end contains the exact same number of stitches.
7. If you did not work round 6 of the initial disc, ch 3 (still counts as 1st DC, forever and aye) and DC in every DC from previous round.  For the next round, ch 3, FPDC in post of next DC, [DC in next DC, FPDC in next DC] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ.  If you did work round 6 of initial disc, omit this step. 
8. For the succeeded rounds, work a DC in every FPDC from the previous round, and a FPDC around the post of every plain DC from the previous round.  Join the end of every round in a manner to indicate the 1st DC of the next round--if the first st in the next round is to be a FPDC, join behind the initial ch 3/DC of this round, but if the first stitch in the next round is to be a regular DC, join at the top of the initial ch 3/DC of this round.  Continue working until hat has reached desired size.
9. Finish with a round of SC in every st.  Tie off.  Sew in loose ends.  Take selfie for Instagram.

Crystal Wave Hat

 

Crystal Wave Hat

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator. Please visit my Ravelry store and consider purchasing a pattern that is not free.

The hat's inspiration comes from a tutorial that Crystal/Bag-O-Day Crochet posted for a new cowl pattern, featuring some amazing yarn from The Paw Ply Yarn Co..  I thought the stitch sequence would make a great hat, and based on an informal survey of yarnies, I decided on the name Crystal Wave Hat, to honor Crystal.

Yarn:  Any solid-color worsted weight yarn, such as Lion Brand Pound of Love.  Would also work with a DK weight yarn.   Approximately 105 yards/95 m.  Approximately 70 yards/64 m. of a primary color, 35 yards/32 m. of a highlight color.  Your mileage may vary.

Hook:  5.5 mm/I

Stitches:  Chain (ch), single crochet (SC), half-double crochet (HDC), double crochet (DC), slip stitch (SS) [SSTJ = slip stitch to join]

The best way to adjust size is to alter the hook size and/or yarn weight, because this pattern works best if the number of stitches in each round of the body is a multiple of 10 (5 rows x 12 st = 60)

Method:

Create initial disc:

1. Using highlight color, ch 4, slip stitch to join (SSTJ) into a ring;  Ch 3 (counts as DC here and throughout), work 11 more DCs in the ring.  SSTJ in top of ch 3. (12 DC total, including ch 3). 
2. Ch 3, DC in same stitch, 2 DC in each DC from previous round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3. (24 DC total) Change color for the next round.
3. Using the primary color, ch 3, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.  (36 DC total)
4. Ch 3, DC in next st, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next 2 st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.  (48 DC total) Change color for the next round.
5. Using highlight color, ch 3, DC in next 2 st, 2 DC in next st, [DC in next 3 st, 2 DC in next st] repeat bracketed instructions to end of round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3.   (60 DC total)

Please note, if you would like more information about how to crochet in the round like this, see my video tutorial here.

Body of hat:

1. Staying with the highlight color, ch 1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round, and in every st of the round.  SSTJ in the 1st SC. When working a round of SC I find it useful to place a stitch marker in the 1st SC to make clear exactly where to join at the end and avoid confusion with the ch1.  (60 st in this and every subsequent round.)  Change to primary color.
   
   First section:
2. Using primary color, ch1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round, HDC in next st, DC in next 5 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch1, skip 1; [SC in the next st, HDC in next st, DC in next 5 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch1, skip 1]  work bracketed instructions 5 times, SSTJ in the 1st SC.
3. Repeat round 2. Change to highlight color
4. Using highlight color, ch 1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round and in the next 8 stitches. If you are not in a position to make your next stitch into the ch1 spaces below, recheck your counting.  DC into the ch1 space 2 rows below. [SC in next 9 stitches, DC in ch 1 space 2 rows below.] Work bracketed instructions 5 times, SSTJ in 1st SC.  Change to primary color.
   
   Offset section:
5. Using primary color, ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 2 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch 1, sk 1.  For the offset to appear correct, the ch1 space must be aligned to the 3rd DC of the primary color section below. If not, recheck your counting. [SC in next st, HDC in next st, DC in next 5 st, HDC in next st, SC in next st, ch 1, sk 1] work bracketed instructions 4 times, ensuring alignment each time; SC in next st, HDC in next st, DC in next 2 st, SSTJ in top of ch3.
6. Repeat round 5.  Change to highlight color.
7. Using highlight color, ch 1; SC in the st where you joined in the last round and in the next 4 st.  If you are not in a position to make your next stitch into the ch1 spaces below, recheck your counting.  DC into the ch1 space 2 rows below. [SC in next 9 stitches, DC in ch 1 space 2 rows below.] Work bracketed instructions 5 times; SC in next 5 st, SSTJ in 1st SC.  Change to primary color.
   
   
8. R 8,9,10:  repeat R 2,3,4
9. Optional R 11,12,13:  repeat R 5,6,7
10. Add a row of SC in either color.  

For the body of the hat, proper arrangement of the offset sections is crucial for the hat to look its best.  This is where counting is essential.  For each offset section to appear correctly, the 3rd DC of 5 must be directly above the border DC and ch spaces from previous rows, and the ch spaces and border DC must be directly above the 3rd DC of 5 in the previous rows.  

Optional:  If you include the additional rounds in step 9, your hat might be long enough to look like a flapper hat.  Consider adding a crocheted flower or leaf in the highlight color as an ornament.

Sew in loose ends.  Bribe someone to model it for Instagram pictures.  

Please address any questions or comments to beardedyarndudes@deb8.biz.

Another hat pattern!

 Alicia Stitch Hat

This hat is an excellent accompaniment to my Alicia Shawl pattern, which at my Ravelry store here.

Please note:  I make all my hat patterns free of charge to inspire crocheters to make hats for charity, particularly for Hat Not Hate.  Please feel free to redistribute this pattern, so long as you include this note and credit the pattern creator.

All my links: https://linktr.ee/BeardedYarnDudes

An earlier iteration.  

Yarn:  Any solid or variegated DK or worsted weight yarn. I am quite fond of Lion Brand Jeans for this hat (see pics), but many others would work. I hesitate to recommend a self-striping yarn, unless the stripe is shorter than those found in Lion Brand Mandala, for example.  (Although I am exceedingly fond of Lion Brand Mandala for other patterns.)

Hook:  5.0 (H) or 5.5 (I), or other hook to suit the yarn.

Stitches:  

• chain (ch) 
• single crochet (SC)
• back-loop single crochet (SC working in the back loop of the stitch rather than both loops)
• half-double crochet (HDC)
• double crochet (DC)
• front-post double crochet (DC working around the post to push it forward, rather than the top of the stitch)
• back-post double crochet (DC working around the post to push it back, rather than the top of the stitch)
• slip stitch (SS)
• chain 1 space (ch 1 sp)

Hat top:

Ch 4, slip stitch to join (SSTJ) with first ch, creating a ring; alternately use the magic ring

1. ch 4 (counts as DC + ch), DC in the ring, ch1, [DC in the ring, ch1] repeat until there are 6 DCs and 6 ch 1 spaces, SSTJ in the 3rd ch of the ch 4 that began the round (6 DC + 6 ch 1 sp) 

2. ch 4 (counts as DC + ch), DC in the ch where the SS from previous round is located, [ch1, DC in next ch 1 space, ch 1, DC in next DC] repeat until the last DC has been worked, ch 1 + DC in last ch 1 space, ch 1, SSTJ in 3rd ch of the ch 4 that began the round (12 DC + 12 ch 1 sp)

3. ch 3 (counts as DC), 2 DC in next ch 1 sp, [DC in next DC, 2 DC in next ch 1 sp] repeat to the end of the round, SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began the round (36 DC)

4. ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next DC, 2 DC in next DC, [DC in next DC, DC in next DC, 2 DC in next DC] repeat to the end of the round, SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began the round (48 DC)

5. ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 2 DCs, 2 DC in next DC, [DC in next 3 DCs, 2 DC in next DC] repeat to the end of the round, SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began the round (60 DC)

6. ch 4 (counts as DC + ch 1), skip 1, DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1, DC, ch 1, [DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1, DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1, DC, ch 1] repeat to end of round, SSTJ in 3rd ch of ch 4 that began the round (36 DC + 36 ch 1 sp)

Measure your hat top after round 5. If the diameter is 7.5 in (19 (cm) the hat brim will measure 22-23 in (56-58 cm). If you omit round 6—or indeed, 5 and 6--it will have no negative effect on the final hat.

Side of hat: 

(each round has the same number of stitches as the last round of the top)

1. Ch 4 (counts as DC + ch1), skip 1*,  [DC in next DC, ch 1, skip 1] repeat to end of round, SSTJ in 3rd ch of the ch 4 that began the round. Optional: omit this round, or work R 2 and then R 1.   *If previous round is all DC, skip 1 DC; if previous round alternates DC and 1 ch 1 sp, skip the ch 1 sp.
2. Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in every ch 1 sp and DC of previous round, SSTJ at top of ch 3 that began the round
3. Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in every DC of previous round, SSTJ at top of ch 3 that began the round 
4. Ch 1, HDC in the same st where you worked a SSTJ, HDC in all remaining DC from previous round, SSTJ
5. Ch 1, SC in the same st where you worked a SSTJ, BLSC in all remaining HDC from previous round, SSTJ
6. Repeat R 1, working with SC from previous round
7. Repeat R 2, work SSTJ behind the ch 3 that began the round, not in the top ch
8. Ch 3 (counts as FPDC), BPDC in next DC, [FPDC in next DC, BPDC in next DC] repeat to end of round.  If more height is required, repeat this round.  SSTJ in top of ch 3 that began this round. If less height is required, omit this round entirely and consider working round 9 twice.
9. Ch 1, SC in ch where you worked SSTJ in previous round, and in all remaining stitches from the previous round.  Tie off

Sew in loose ends.  Bribe someone to model it for Instagram pictures.  

Please address any questions or comments to beardedyarndudes@deb8.biz.

Support your favorite content creators

I am semi-retired. That means the thought that I could get another corporate job like I had before is ludicrous (plus it also makes me want to die), and I couldn't physically do the kind of lower-level jobs I now qualify for. I am waiting to hear about a Disability claim, but not holding my breath. In the meantime, crochet and social media are both an avocation and an occupation that has potential to bring income. It is one of several activities that have potential to bring in income. Toward that end, I would like to make the following points known.

If you are reading my blog, I assume there is a level of good will concerning my activities and efforts. Based on an excellent live stream video from J.Hook Crochet, a fellow YouTube content creator whom I highly recommend, I have the following suggestions:

• If you like a post in this blog or any of my blogs, comment at the blog, not the Facebook post where I linked the blog.
• If you like a post in this blog or any of my blogs, share it. I don't have Pinterest or TikTok, but I certainly don't object if those who do have them link me or talk about me there. If a particular post moves you, talk about it freely everywhere. 
• If you have a way to follow this blog or any social media outlet where I have presence, then subscribe and designate notifications for all new posts.
• In blogs, on YouTube, on Instagram--comments are gold. Since Google controls the whole world, and knows the connection between my three blogs, my two Instagram pages, my two Facebook business pages (plus a dormant one I'm considering resurrecting), and my individual Facebook ID, what I had for breakfast, and what I might have for dinner two weeks hence, commenting to one helps all.
• I know YouTube is already playing ads on my videos, even though I don't yet qualify to receive any  benefit from them. Regardless, if you play the ad through, eventually I as content creator will benefit and the evil advertiser will pay more. Always remember that:  if you play the ad all the way through, the evil advertiser pays more. And remember that on TV we would always use commercials as time for a bio-break or to refill a beverage. (For the record, the advertisements you see are based on your browsing history and interests, and I have absolutely no control over them.)
• All comments are welcome. On the other hand, if you wish to bring to my attention a technical issue with my A/V setup, usually the issue will not have escaped my notice. I am learning a lot of new things in this content creator journey. But do comment. I promise not to post a snarky reply. Well, I'll try to resist.....
• The media outlets evaluate how much time people spend with your videos. That is why content creators are always asking you to watch to the end. I ask you to do the same. Am I so annoying that you don't have a few more minutes to help me out?
• Please. Watch freely. Enjoy all the content creators you enjoy. Whatever you can fit into your life--and I know some people have more time for social media than others. But watch freely. It doesn't even matter if you're paying attention! (But don't tell our Google Overlords that I said that! I will deny it to my dying byte! Or not.)
• If you follow a content creator who sells stuff, consider buying stuff. Some yarn content creators sell finished objects. I sell patterns and merch. If you're struggling to feed your family don't buy my stuff, or anyone else's. If you have a few extra shekels, give it some thought. 

Just a few thoughts. I welcome your opinions.

The video I reference: